Thailand – Not Enough

Cheap air travel may not be the theme today with the rising crude prices. But on 16th May 2008 (Day seven) we flew from Phnom Penh to Bangkok for a paltry Rs.1600 per head (A shade less than 40 USD courtesy AirAsia.com). The flight was rather empty but we were incredibly busy reading up the heavy Wikitravel.com printouts. We understood right then that even if we spent all our four days in Bangkok we would still have more to see. Nevertheless we did have a plan.

Suvarnabhumi International airport is one of the largest terminals in the world. After a half-hour walk evading hundreds of taxi touts we managed to board a pre-paid taxi. There is some kind of a strange logic about addresses in Bangkok. The fundae behind the ‘Sois’ and the ‘Nois’ of Bangkok made for an interesting read but locating the River View Guest House was a real challenge. But it was all worth it ‘coz the view of the Chao Phraya River from our balcony was simply breathtaking.

Every time we stepped out of the hotel room, the first mode of transport was the ferry we took from the N3 pier. We ferried straight to N8, the pier nearest to the Wat Pho. Wat Pho is the site of the world famous ‘Reclining Buddha’. About 49 meters long, this gold Buddha in the “Anantha sayanam” pose is a master piece. To keep him away from gold-scratching tourists there is a barricade with a 2-3 meter wide gap from the iconic Buddha. Till date I didn’t know that around this part of the world the Buddha is considered one of the dasavatharas.

Hunger pangs took us to the Siam center where after a heavy meal and a few rounds of mall hopping we started feeling the tiredness from a week of sight-seeing. Our aching legs made us decide that our next two days at the Pattaya resort were meant for rejuvenation.

Pattaya has something on offer for the tourist of every age. Our first memory of Pattaya is the beach where we spent hours tanning in the waters. Stepping out of the beach we filled ourselves with satays of the choicest meats. We also happened to try out some brilliant banana pancakes. I’ll post the recipe for this simple dessert soon.

Later in the evening we decided to explore the famous Go-Go’s and Beer bars. While these places have interesting themes we soon realized they all these were merely veneers for prostitution. The first place had exhibition Muay Thai (Thai kick boxing). The matches were pulsating but the lady bartenders were vying for our attention hoping that we would pay the bar-fine and take them out with us. A quick exit led us to a place specializing in board games. I was soon with an incredibly striking Thai beauty (Ms. Aio) playing a board game called four in a row. While I couldn’t take my eyes off her, I managed to win a game with a bet of 100 baht. Boy! It was a nice feeling and I kept playing. Only when I was at minus 300 baht I realized that I was being milked. After promising her that I would take her out the next evening we made a second exit and by then it was like 3 AM.

We woke up around noon on day nine and headed straight to the beach. After the ritual dip we negotiated parasailing for 1100 baht (for three guys). Parasailing at Pattaya is quite different from the ones at Miami and Cancun. This one was precision personified with the speed boat driver making you take-off and land exactly on a small launch area. But the aerial sojourn is only about 3-4 minutes long, way lower than the 20 minutes sail offered in the Atlantic beaches. The afternoon and the evening were spent walking along the shoreline and going on a shopping binge at the Big C. We ended up using the bhramastra (a.k.a Bank of America credit card) for the second time in the trip.

Day ten started early. We took a ‘songthaey’ to go to the bus-bay and went back to Bangkok. A heavy rain greeted us but we had made up our mind to go visit the King’s palace. Adorned with so much gold the Royal palace is a great sight. Little did we realize how blessed we were that day. When we reached Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) that afternoon, we came to know that we were seeing the sacred ‘Visaka Buddha’ on Buddha Jayanthi itself. It was a perfect culmination to a great trip. After some more eating in the streets and some evening shopping at Chinatown we packed up to leave next morning to Calcutta and eventually home. There is so much more to see in Thailand and hopefully I can come once more and spend at least a couple of weeks here. Yeh Dil Maange More!

Cambodia – Pristine Beauty

Apparently it had been raining hard around Siem Reap and thus an aerial view of the muddy country-side made it look like a huge bowl of milked tea :-). The morning of day five we reached the small but impressively clean Siem Reap International airport terminal.

We exchanged $50 at the airport and collected a hefty amount 187,500 Riels. The instant lakhpatis, that we were, hired taxi driver Mr. Vannak in his bright green Toyota Camry to go to Golden Temple Villa, our abode near the old market area. From what we learnt in Wikitravel.com we also negotiated with him for $30, a whole day trip around major historic sites and a trip to the Landmine Museum some 20 miles outside the city.

Akira, the curator of the Landmine museum, has indeed got a touching story to tell. He joined the Khmer Rogues when he was barely nine years old. From there he was captured by the Vietnamese army where he was taught how to lay mines. Later he planted mines for the Cambodian army. While he admits that he indiscriminately planted deadly mines for more than a decade he has been making amends since the early 1990s defusing about 50 mines everyday. Well, with around 200 Cambodians dying in landmine blasts every year even today, he still has got a lot to do. Just outside the museum sat a war victim whose hands and legs were blown apart by a mine. This only added to our anguish as we were just coming from Wat Thmey (The killing Fields), where a few hundred skulls from the savage ‘Pol Pot’ regime were on display in a poignant glass stupa.

Well, all this was just history from the near past and we had no clue about what we were going to witness as the day progressed. Our first historic stop was the Ta Prohm temple (currently being restored by archeologists from India). I think everyone will understand something different from this site. While there is some kind of an unimaginable silence around the temple ruins, I could sense the battle between nature and man-made relics. Trees (each 500-600 years old) have, with their roots, brought down beautiful temples. I’m sure that in a few years archeologists will restore some of this temple’s lost glory. But what you witness today will tell you who the eventual winner will be.

From there we headed to the Angkor Thom city area which had the beautiful Bayon temple at its centre. The trademark face-towers of Cambodia come to life at the Bayon. As for me, the Bayon is the most enigmatic structure I have seen in my life. A mass of four-faced towers creates a mountain of ascending peaks and the incredibly complex bas-reliefs depict everything from Apsaras to wars to scenes from daily life. This is one place where you should have your picture taken (See mine above).

A highly ruined Bapuon temple is just a short walk from Bayon but the series of short round pillars that support the causeway are an incredible sight to watch if you are ready to bend your backs and look down. Climb up the Phimeanakas only if you have the guts. While my friends decided at the outset not to climb the narrow steps I regretted after climbing up. The real challenge is getting down. By the time we took sneak peek at the Elephant terrace it was 3 PM and time to drive down to the biggest attraction in town, the Angkor Wat temple.

The Angkor Wat, I bet, will not disappoint anyone. The superbly serene temple is the world’s largest religious monument which also makes it the largest Hindu temple in the world. Michael Freeman calls Angkor Wat the microcosm of the Hindu Universe. The moat around the temple is supposedly meant to represent the mythical oceans and all the towers meant to represent the peaks that surround Mount Meru, the abode of Hindu Gods. In fact there is a gradual ascent as you go inside the temple and this is some kind of an imitation climbing up to God’s abode. The authors of ‘Ancient Angkor’, the guide book we used, recommend multiple visits to appreciate Angkor Wat’s beauty. And apparently, only in August can you can see the trademark orange hue of the temple towers at sunset.

After a hard day we went to Zanzybar, in town, where some local girls invited us to play pool, which was only a guise to lead up to a round of incredible neck massages. Before it led to anything else murkier, we tipped them a dollar each and headed back for a good night’s sleep in the idyllic Golden Temple Villa.

Early morning on day six, we wanted to take the hydrofoils to go to Phnom Penh. But with the waters receding in summer we had to settle for the bus. It took us about 4.5 hrs to reach Phnom-Penh. After quickly checking into Comfort Star Hotel (Monivong Blvd) we hired a tuk-tuk for an afternoon sojourn around the city. Phnom Penh is an incredibly organized city. We managed to visit the Royal Palace, the museum and take a walk down the Mekong riverfront. Let me not forget to mention an incredible game of kick-badminton we witnessed at the riverfront. Later we went to check out the notorious Martini Pub, but had to wriggle out early ‘coz we had an early morning flight to Bangkok. Apart from the steep $25 departure tax, every penny spent on Cambodian soil is well worth the money. You bet.

Malaysia – Truly Asia

On a mildly sunny Saturday morning, 4.5 hrs after we started from Chennai, the team reached the surprisingly quiet KL International airport at 8:45 AM (6:15 AM IST). A few times I felt we guys were creating the only few noises in the airport. We quickly finished the immigration, picked up our bags and also took a tourist SIM card each and called home (5 Ringgits talk time on an 8 Ringgit activation card was not bad at all). Deciding to take the fastest mode to reach KL Sentral, where our hotel was located, we took the non-stop express and reached in 28 minutes flat burning 35 Ringgits apiece. At KL Sentral we learnt our biggest lesson of the trip. A suave Tamil speaking taxi-driver hoodwinked us into paying 10 Ringgits for a less than 0.5 km distance to the hotel. We remembered an old lesson “Don’t believe any Indian doing business abroad unless you know fully well what you are getting into”.

Hotel Florida is ideally located just 5 minutes by walk from KL Sentral. Being a predominantly Indian area there was no dearth of Indian food options. Food is very cheap in the vicinity with a sumptuous meal for us three costing only about 20 ringgits. We quickly swung into action and took the train to KLCC that very afternoon. KLCC is Kuala Lumpur convention center and is among the happening areas in the city. Petronas Towers, Aquaria KLCC and the KLCC Park are the main attractions. We got to know that PETRONAS issues about 1000 free visit passes everyday in the morning from 8:30 AM which meant that passes get over by 9 AMJ. After spending some time in the SURIYA Mall at the base of the twin towers we headed to the Aquarium. It was rather a mini-zoo. Lots of fishes plus tropical snakes, lizards and insects were on display. Admission is a flat 38 Ringgits per head but when I brandished my expired ISB student id they reduced my ticket fare to 25 ringgits. So when you go don’t forget to carry your old student id ;). Since it wasn’t even dark when we got out of the aquarium we decided to go to Chinatown. All shopping buffs don’t miss out Chinatown. There were stalls selling t-shirts, all kinds of counterfeit Rolex watches, Nike/Reebok shoes & T-shirts, decorative items, spare parts and many different eateries. I picked up a Chinese cool drink made of jowar (sorghum) and slowly developed a liking for it by the time I finished it up. Trying to apply some MBA style price-discovery and negotiation techniques I got booed by several Chinese shopkeepers. Anyhow our idea was not really to shop much on day one. Later in the evening we spent a good time at a rather expensive Hard Rock Café and decided to wind up at 11 ‘coz we were all sleepy due to lack of sleep the previous night.

Day two, we were in the PETRONAS visitors queue at 7:45 AM. Leaving L at the queue me and K went in search of a place to have breakfast. We discovered a place that served some dosas plus some other Malay food. I could not resist the temptation to open the folded plantain leaf, inside which was hiding some Malay breakfast. Inside was a ball of rice flavored with some dried chilly flakes in oil plus a small salted-sun-dried fish (Karuvadu). It was actually very tasty and soon enough K also finished one servingJ. After having been atop the Sears Tower, John F. Hancock and CN Tower going up only to the 41st floor of PETRONAS did not sound any bit thrilling. But the beauty here is walking on the sky-bridge that connects the 41st floor of either tower. An interesting trivia is that the towers were constructed by two different contractors. Looking at the Malaysian skyline from atop, I felt my first pang of jealousy at a country that came out of colonial rule 11 years after India. Soon enough we were in a local bus to Genting Highlands, an hour away from KL, the seat of Malaysia’s world famous theme park. From the base of the mountain we had to board a gondola of the Genting skyway. The 3.4 km skyway is claimed to be the longest in the world and in about 17 minutes we were up the 1000 m peak. In spite of reading up so much and planning so well, yours truly was wearing half trousers when we got down at the misty peak. Feeling quite cold we decided that we would spend the half a day or so let out in the indoor theme park. We should have taken around 10-15 rides. The ‘Flying Coaster’, which gives u a controlled experience of how it would feel if you were Superman doing aerial somersaults, was easily the best ride. It is a different story that L decided to sit out looking at the intensity of the experience and the pale faces that came out. The day ended very late that night but not before we discovered the Puduraya bus terminal and we dynamically decided that we were setting off to Melaka (Malacca) the next day.

After coaxing L to get up and wash first, we took the 3 hr bus from Puduraya to Melaka early on day four. We reached just before noon and decided to go around town first rather than finding a place to stay for the night. Melaka is a historic town, one that has changed hands so many times with everyone from the Persians, the French, the English and the Dutch having ruled over at different points in time. Before Singapore became what it is today Melaka was the trading center of the Bay of Bengal. Two museums and a view of Melaka from atop the newly inaugurated revolving tower we were at the famous Jonkers walk lined with nice little shops and resto-bars. Small town Melaka is a refreshingly cute city with beautifully decorated Trishaws to carry tourists around. It is so nice to walk around the town that after getting some rest we went around late in the evening picking up some satay and a Chinese version of Phad Thai for dinner. And yes we did some shopping at Jonkers walk.

Day four was literally wind-up-Malaysia day. We reached KL around afternoon and went straight to Chinatown. After finishing off some namesake shopping (L did get into a binge) we went again to KLCC but this time to the park. While L watched our bags we played in the water for sometime and then we all enjoyed the beautiful dancing fountains in the park (Please don’t imagine anything like the Bellagio fountains at LV, this was basic stuff). Things weren’t over. We came to know that our AirAsia.com flight flew out of a specially built airport called the Low Cost Carrier Terminal (LCCT). But the superb thing was the airline operated special buses started from KL Sentral, a stone’s throw away. Getting into the bus at 4:45 AM to catch a 7:00 AM flight to Siem-Reap (Cambodia) was not really a pain after capping a brilliant four days in Malaysia.

Three Nation Trip

After some unabated traveling I once again sit reminiscing. It all started a couple of months ago when school friends where in Hyderabad to celebrate Holi with me at ISB. One conversation led to another and we ended up with a summer trip proposal to go and see Malaysia, Cambodia and Thailand. Two of my friends literally took my case when they heard Cambodia. But I maintained that Cambodia is indeed the destination to visit which two others, L & K, who eventually made it to the trip, would strongly concur ex post.

After a month and half of scouring for cheap tickets (Hansa Tours, Hyderabad and AirAsia.com coming to the rescue and we finished at Rs.21989 per head) and reading up on reams of web-sites and travel logs we were getting ready. Our budget was going to be somewhere around 35-40 grand rupees per head (what we ended up spending will come a little later). We haggled and argued about every stop in our itinerary. Lonely Planet and Wikitravel.com were literally Godsend. We read reviews on every Lonely Planet listed hostel and guest house. It comes as no surprise that our final expenses show just Rs.4405 for accommodation (Isn’t that incentive enough for you guys to pack your bags).

The expedition, as I like to call it, started on 10th May, 2008 with the trio boarding the Air India Express flight to KL. Eleven days of pure exploration ensued where we were willing to experiment on everything from food to modes of transport to night-life spots. It will not do justice to any country if I decide to pool our entire trip experience into a single blog post. So I would rather unravel our experience in three posts trying my best to relive the best moments of the trip and also try to drop in a few cues for any would be visitors. Kindly bear the braggadocio.

Toronto – Ploughing a lonely furrow

Finally I reached Toronto this morning at 6:00. My tryst with Air Canada is over. I’ll try my best never to fly Air Canada again. I immediately checked with Air India on my flight this evening and got to know that the flight is delayed to 2:25 AM on Monday morning. Phew ! At least I got some time to go around Toronto. Took a cab from the airport and checked in at Deluxe Inn. I was taken care of by a desi cab driver and then a desi hotel receptionist. I see too many desis in Canada (some in really deplorable conditions) and I could clearly sense that each one is longing to be in India. I can see their eyes sparkle when I ask them the very obvious question “Are you from India?” Checked for a tours to Niagara, but the bitter cold plus the Sunday meant that there were no trips. So took a longish nap till 2:00 and took the Toronto subway to get to the “Union” station at downtown. The subway system is very similar to the one in Singapore. Here there is an east-west line and a U-line from mid-north west to down south and all the way up to mid-north east.

A forty-five minute journey split across two trains made me realize the size of Toronto and I reached downtown. This is a typical downtown, the familiar glass-plated concrete jungle, if you will. It was not very difficult to spot CN tower, the very purpose of my visit. With a $26 entrance fee I could go up to the second level observatory. The only other buildings of this scale I have visited were the Sears Tower and the John. F. Hancock towers in Chicago. A 44 sec trip on the elevator took me to the first level observatory which is around 346 metres. The view of the Ontario Lake was simply superb. I just got reminded of Chicago because the Michigan Lake view from Sears tower is almost very similar to this one. Looking at the ground from the glass floor section was quite a scary thing. After getting an extreme picture here, I went up the second level observatory (447 m) which is rightly called the top of the world. I have decided to add a few other high rises to my to-see list are

i) The Ostankino Tower, Moscow
ii) Petronas Towers, Malaysia
iii) Empire State Building, New York
iv) Taipei 101 Tower, Taipei

Back in the airport the 2:25 AM flight is now pushed to 6:30 AM. What a journey this is turning out to be. God please save me !!!

Terminal Musings

Never in my wildest dreams have I thought of the proposition of spending a whole day in an airport. Some excellent co-ordination by my company’s travel department and a big snow storm at Toronto has got me stuck at the Calgary International airport now. My original flight has been canceled and now after being standby for 3 flights I’m waiting for the fourth flight. Although I’m mad at a lot of people I’m taking this time to just cool off. After all I haven’t had any time for myself since April 2006. I was busy all of May 2006 winding up my first 100% mainframe project (curse my efforts at becoming versatile). And then I was busy preparing to fly to India for Divya’s engagement. All of June 2006 flew by with the engagement work and trying to reserve a marriage hall for the wedding.

Talking with Sreeram ( a.k.a Kulguru) during my vacation was a really big turning point in my life. He egged me to take GMAT and told how strongly he believed that I could be in a top B-school. What a great friend he is…You are great machi. Then came the two months slog balancing work and GMAT preparation. My college time MBA aspirations were all too obvious to my friends because I cracked the CAT 2001(It is a different story that my naiveté did not help me convert the interview calls). But this time I kept a really low profile about my second attempt at getting into a B-school. I can count with one hand the number of people who knew that I was preparing. Even after getting a pretty decent score I kept everything under the warps about my applications. I know that a lot of my friends are angry with me because I was operating so clandestinely. This MBA thing almost ate me full time up to early December and by then I was ready to fly back to India. Divya’s marriage happened on 11th Jan and in the middle of all commotion I had my ISB and RSM interviews. I then set out to Pune to help Divya and Sujith settle a lil bit.

Another nice twist was this Canadian due-diligence assignment. A couple of good meetings during the client visit helped me land into this fantastic assignment. I consider myself really lucky to be part of a team doing due-diligence for a $100 million deal…Do I really need an MBA I thought after getting picked up for the assignment. I met some really exceptional Infoscions here. The good quality in this team was the fact that even though the team members came from so many different offices each one knew to how to work cohesively towards the one goal of collecting and crunching as much information as possible. After a terrific presentation of the DD findings to the client yesterday, the team disbursed.. Once I head back it will be my last month with Infosys. I have learnt a lot from her (Infosys) and even though we are breaking up now in not so good terms (I got indications that my promotion is being withheld :-( ), it is a relationship that has shaped me. Okay, the pork ribs and the glass of wine are empty now and I’ll put a full stop to my inebriated rambling too :-) !

Calgary

Today it is two weeks since I came to Calgary. This place will last in my mind for a few reasons. First was the shocker of sorts admit from ISB which I got immediately after I landed here. The next thing is the biggest thermal shock I got in life. In spite of the fact that I lived three winters in Kansas the cold here was at a different level. I landed here to face a -23ºC for around three days with continuous snow. Work started slowly but with this kinda low weather I started feeling low myself.

But bang came the Chinook wind, another fantastic new phenomenon I learnt and the temperature came up to +2ºC. I read about these winds in Wikipedia and came to know that these moisture laden winds can bring up the temperature by even 40ºC.

Then came the weekend. Yours truly still has a valid US drivers license. So me and my roomie here rented a car each and drove the eight member team to the Canadian Rocky Mountains. . It was a scenic 2 hour from Calgary and the view of the snow capped mountains was really scintillating. We went up the Sulphur mountains in a Gondola and then hiked (board walked) from Sulphur mountain to Sanson's peak. It was bitterly cold and to add to the misery we played with the snow and my lips totally froze. It took a while for me to recover but all in all it was fun.

On the way back we stopped at Lake Louis. In fact we walked on the frozen lake. Watching kids play ice hockey was a real treat. We wrote our names on the snow and clicked our cameras.

These two weeks have been one of the most intense professional learning periods in my stint with Infosys. Well Infy probably realizes that these are the last few days I'll be dating her and she wants to treat me well !!! As we get into the last week of the due diligence work gets out of proportion. I just hope that I can squeeze in a few hours and catch a glimpse of the Polar bear at the Calgary zoo...

Thanksgiving

As I sit back at the fag end of the Thanksgiving weekend, I see that I have had quite a week. I submitted my INSEAD application on Wednesday. Soon I heard results of some of the R1 applicants. Some really good profiles have not received calls. Some believe it is due to perceived lack of diversity and some blame their own essays. Why on earth do I have to read these right after I submitted my app :( ... I have started getting some self-doubts about my application. Even though nothing can be done after submitting your applications I started thinking about the $250 application fees !!! I could have done a hell lot of things with that much money !

Aside of this I had a good trip to Grand lake, Tulsa, Oklahoma. It is a serene lake about an hour east of Tulsa, OK. We were a party of eight and we had good fun grilling, cooking, schmoozing and not to mention boozing. My favorite white wines(Chardonnay/Zinfedal are my favs) were not available for the first two days and so I had to remain sober, but on the last day got some and went into my orbit ;-) ! Came back on saturday night. Today I did some shopping for my return back home. Got a Girgio Armani code perfume for myself a nice watch for mom.

Three more weeks before I head back home. I have lots of things to do by then. Must complete the company mandated certification, must get my Singapore visa for the stoppage enroute home, must do some more shopping and ensure that my transition of responsibilities is as smooth as possible. When to the world it looks like I'm all done I'm just boiling inside :-). I plan to blog soon on my total experience in the US. It also occurs to me that I can prepare a lot of travel blogs too.

Anyhow Happy Thanksgiving to y'all !